Tuesday, 9 February 2010

Waiting For The Big One....9th Feb.

First up I owe a major appology to all who have tried to comment...after talking to Wendy back home I just went in and checked my settings, and YES, I had comments disabled, the problem is rectified....i was wondering why the only feedback I was getting was from Wendy and Samara...."Hey...I'm a looser baby.....so why don't......"

Dont go there Chad....I've already had one remark on the screensaver on my laptop that you and Samara so kindly set up for me.

OK, now thats out of the way we'll get back into it.

Takayuki Wakita picking up the remains of some pipe warriors board and moving it up past the water line. A link to Tak is below.


A rare unridden one fires down the line groomed by the trades .

The Haleiwa Bridge...Once you've crossed this your at the start of all the action.

Roosters in the Foodland carpark on the Kam Highway. (I'm editing this post from today for the next paragraph)

What's with the roosters...? I've been to three islands of the Hawaiian Island chain over the years and I can definitely remember the freekin roosters on two of them...here and Kauai. I'm sure they were on the big island two, but can't absolutely remember them.
Well, the story that I know and it's the only one I've ever heard, came to me on our visit to the island of Kauai in 2000 and it was from one of the fire fighters there from memory while Wendy was getting attended to (another story again). "Apparently" what happened was when one of the hurricanes hit the islands, all the chook pens etc got decimated as you would expect and the dam chickens all ran amok, no one bothered to round them up, they mated and it continues to this day.....chickens everywhere.Who knows, it could be total bollocks, but it definitely sounds plausable. Anyway, they're for real......Surf Alert. 10.48pm. I just heard the distinctive first big crack of something unloading on the reef over the road. It's here I swear to god, it has just hit. I'm going for a look. (End of edit) and end of me for tonight, but keep reading ok !

Another day of semi rest time. I say "semi" as waves are still up but not big enough to get excited about after such a run of perfection.

I'm writing this at 8.30am Tuesday Feb 9th Hawaiian time... 4.30am tomorrow for you Aussies back home. You will often notice conflict in my dates here (quoted dates and posted dates) that's because I'm blogging in the present but my laptop is still posting the dates as Australian eastern standard time.

Did I ever mention ther roosters around here, well, I'm about to now. There's hundreds of them, the noisy little pricks. I think I've mentioned how I always seem to wake up at 4.30am even though it doesn't get light until around 7am, well THEY are a real contributing factor to that. They start very early, actually they never seem to stop come to think of it, and are still going now as I write. So yesterday I acquired a pair of earplugs and firmly inserted them before venturing off to bed last night and it seemed to work to a certain extent as I scored an extra hours sleep this morning waking up at 5.30 or 6am.....still dark though. There is also a lot of road noise to contend with here as most of the locals travel completely accross the island to Honolulu to work as there is very limited job opportunity on this side, and the only way over there is via the road past my bedroom, so they are all leaving very early to make the trip. I only found out yesterday that my landlord on this trip works at Hickam airforce base right next to Honolulu airport and leaves for work at 5am, which has turned out to be a real godsend for me, as yesterday I was talking to her and asking the best way for me to get over to the other side of the island by 6am on the day I leave seeing that I don't have wheels, that's when she announced that she would take me that morning as Hickam is right next door to Hon International which is in turn saving me a hefty cab fare / hotel bill for that little excursion. Plus another bonus to that is that the charts are calling 19 foot faces for my last day here, so I can hang at the beach all day without freeking out about getting over to Hon that day to be at checkin by 6am the next morning.

Back with more later....Tim has just offered me a lift into Haleiwa and I've got something I have to do in there....gotta run.

Ok....been to the post office, picked up a few basic supplies and I'm back again. Just opened up my emails, and it looks like the two days of waiting is over. The next five days report is below and it's definitely back on again right up to when I leave by the look of it. A couple of days to breathe is a good thing as there's not going to be any more. Even though this swell is going to be a monster, with the amount of west it's going to have in it and the trades being on, I would say I'm going to be up for some of my best shots to date. I will be planning on hitting Pipe and OTW in the buildup and then when it turns itself inside out head down to Waimea then back to Pipe for the ease off. "the best laid plans of......bla, bla, bla). We'll see how it all turns out.

TUESDAY 02/09 GOOD........ SURF:4-5 ft
shoulder to head high. Fading old WNW/NW swell mix for the morning, then building new WNW swell shows later in the afternoon with larger sets!

WEDNESDAY 02/10 VERY GOOD.......SURF:20-25 ft
4-5 times overhead occ. 30 ft.... Solid WNW swell builds to a peak; moderate ENE trades...stay tuned

THURSDAY 02/11 VERY GOOD.......SURF:18-20 ft. 4 times overhead occ. 25 ft. WNW swell eases a bit.

FRIDAY 02/12 VERY GOOD......SURF:10-15 ft
2-3 times overhead occ 18 ft . WNW swell eases .

SATURDAY 02/13 VERY GOOD.......SURF:10-15 ft
2-3 times overhead. Possible new NW swell, stay tuned. End.

One thing is for certain ...The cameras are going to get a right royal flogging over the next five days thats for sure.
So on and on it goes, notice the last few words in the report for the last day. Just as it ends, it begins again.

Yesterday arvo after being in at Haleiwa I came back and went for a body smash down at pipe...water is beautiful and with the two days of smallish surf the clarity of it is absolute. You can see the reef on the bottom as clear as day. I'm about to head over for another session while it's still possible as there will be no swimming after today full stop ! Yeeehaaa.

Body surfing again this arvo but this time on a new beach that has just formed in the last day and a half right in front of the Oakley House at OTW....beautiful, made the most of it as it'll probably be gone again by tomorrow arvo with the new swell sweeping the reef off again.
10pm here and my day is shot to hell. Wendy just rang and filled me in on the home front. All is good !
I'm going down so I can brace for a rooster alarm for tomorrow morning and get amongst it as early as possible.
Mahalo for tuning in...especially you Luke !!!

1 comment:

  1. Hi Mal, that was different.....a educational lesson. I hope I learnt something!
    Loved the photos from the top of the escarpment. What a walk! Well done!

    Love Wendy. XX


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